Cascade Duffle Coat + Sewing Outerwear Addiction

In January, I finished my Cascade Duffle Coat by Grainline Studio! I want to write up a blog post for each of my completed 2017 Make Nine projects, so here’s number one!

You guys don’t know this about me yet, but I have a bit of an addiction to sewing coats/jackets. (Well, to planning them anyway. We’ll see if it turns into an actual SEWING THEM addiction.) So far in my sewing career, I’ve finished this Cascade Duffle Coat and a Sewaholic Minoru Jacket in an army green twill. There’s just something about big projects that gets me all excited. Firstly, I love finding all the different pieces of the puzzle. I also love all the details that go into the actual construction. As a result, I have several more coats/jackets in my sewing queue. (The Closet Case Patterns KELLY ANORAK, the Deer & Doe Luzerne Trench Coat, the Alina Design Co. Hampton Jean Jacket, the Jalie Patterns Charlie Bomber Jacket)

I’ve been wanting to sew up a Cascade Duffle Coat for a few years. So, on to my experience with the pattern!

Pattern: Cascade Duffle Coat

Size: 0

Fabric: Dark Green Wool Melton

Lining: Jungle Green Bemberg Rayon

Alterations: None

Boy is this pattern a bear to cut out! I’m generally too impatient to wait for printed patterns to come in the mail, therefore, I purchased the pdf option. After a few years of hating the pattern assembly step, I have actually come to enjoy it! Now if I could only learn to love cutting out the fabric pieces. (never gonna happen) There are just so many pieces to cut for this pattern. Also, most pieces have to be cut out 3 times! (Main Fabric, Interfacing, Lining) It honestly took me about as long to CUT it out as it did to SEW the whole thing.

The interfacing I used for this project was Pellon EK130 in the black color. I had never used this type of interfacing before, but I loved working with it.

I had been on the lookout for a nice dark green wool (that cost less than $30/yard) for quite a while. After extensivfe google searching, I discovered Cali Fabrics. They had quite a few wool coatings at affordable prices. And they were on sale! Yay! I ordered the darkest green they had, but it was BRIGHT green when it arrived. Not what I was looking for. I emailed their customer service in case they had accidentally sent me the wrong fabric. It was not a mistake, but they offered to send a swatch of another darker green that wasn’t listed on the website. It was just what I was looking for, so they set up a return/replacement for me! I was so happy with how much they were willing to work with me, and I’m so happy with the finished coat.

Sizing

I have broad shoulders so I was a bit worried about the sizing. My measurements fit very closely with the size 0. At the time, my bust was an inch bigger. The pattern designer recommends sizing up if between sizes. However, I am still nursing my youngest, and my bust is generally (much, sadly) smaller when I’m done nursing. Therefore, I decided to go for the size 0. (with no muslin…talk about being a nervous wreck!) I’m super happy with the fit!

My size calls for 3 yards of fabric, but I don’t think I used even 2 1/2. I even had to cut out an extra front piece because I sliced into it instead of marking it with chalk! This was my first time working with wool but it definitely won’t be my last. I was amazed at the flexibility of the fabric. Pressing it is like a dream! I do feel like I should have done a better job of steaming the fabric (with the iron) before I began, because I definitely had some shrinkage! I love the final fit of the coat, so I don’t mind that, but it’s a little awkward because the lining didn’t shrink.

 

Please ignore how unmatched the hood and placket linings are! I only had a tiny piece of the Tartan (also from Cali Fabrics!), so I honestly didn’t even try to match them up. However, I absolutely love how this fabric looks with the outer fabric! It’s a thick fabric and not a flannel. I love that it doesn’t grab on things or make my hair staticky.

PROBLEMS:

Like I said, the lining is just too big for the coat right now. You can see a bit how the facing pushes the hem out at the bottom if I don’t adjust it often. I’m planning to do some hand stitching to rectify the problem.

As a whole, I love my Cascade Duffle Coat and found it to be an extremely enjoyable project. If you are patient and follow the directions carefully, I think even an advanced beginner could tackle this pattern. I am sad that I only had about 3 weeks of cold weather to it, but I’m happy it’ll be there when I need it this year!

This was number one on my Make Nine list for the year, and it was one of my first projects finished this year!

Please ignore my horrible (desperately needing a haircut) hat hair!!